Setting off for a rural bike ride on a spring morning in Paimpol, the ‘Icelandic’ town.
Along the estuary
We quickly reach the Trieux estuary, a deep blue colour at high tide. At a crossroads, an old stone calvary points to the chapel of Kergrist - a daymark for sailors in times’ past and immortalised by Pierre Loti in his novel My Brother Yves.
Pie Noir cattle in the bay of Lédano
We cycle back through the wild beauty of the bay of Lédano, a cove of white sand bordering the estuary. A bench invites us to pause for a moment of contemplation. Happily, the road leads us past Kerbiguet farm. Loïc Gosselin loves to share his passion for breeding the iconic small Breton pie noir cows and the local terroir. We’ll be sure to come back for the next farm market, to sample delicious dairy products and other local organic treats. After the chapel of Lancerf, another local heritage gem, the track skirts the shore of the estuary - a real delight! An ideal spot for a picnic at the water’s edge.
In the cool of the forest
Reinvigorated, we tackle the last stretch towards the forest of Penhoat-Lancerf, between farmhouses, blue shutters and gates, meadows, ponies and horses, along the Route du Shérif... We are in the largest forested area of the north Breton coast. 600 hectares of deciduous and coniferous trees, bordered by gorse and heather. A pine-scented forest bath is particularly delightful in the heat of the day. Freewheeling down to the highlight of the trip: la Maison de l’Estuaire, one of the four ‘Maisons Nature’ in the area. Coastal ranger Dominique is expecting us, binoculars at the ready. His descriptions help us appreciate this fragile, unspoilt environment between seashore, moor and forest. This is a rich and fascinating experience in superb surroundings, and we don’t notice the time passing.
A train in the woods
We’re already at the end of a day like no other, and we have the unusual pleasure of waiting for the train to emerge from the tree cover. A sign to the driver and we have a beautiful end to our trip, along the winding Trieux river, with gorgeous landscapes to accompany us on our return journey to Paimpol. A unique experience!
(© Text by : David Kerhervé - Publihebdos)