Leaving from Paimpol station
Arriving at Paimpol station a few moments before the train departs, I’m immediately plunged into the past. The old locomotive, a veritable iron lady, is puffing noisily, letting out spurts of steam as if she were impatient to get moving.
Suddenly, a whistle sounds: It’s time! The train gets going slowly, with the characteristic clickety-clack sound of the wheels on the rails, and we’re on our way.
Nature and heritage along the Trieux river
Sitting at the rear of the train, I’m enjoying an uninterrupted view of the scenery as it unfurls before my eyes. The Vallée du Trieux is revealed in all its splendour: wooded riverbanks, pretty little bridges, and the sensation of travelling back in time, lulled by the steady rhythm of the locomotive.
Around a bend in the river, the Maison de l’Estuaire appears suddenly from among the trees, on the banks of the Trieux. Formerly the Manoir de Traou-Nez, it is today a centre dedicated to the discovery of natural heritage and the preservation of the estuary’s eco-system. Recently restored, it hosts exhibitions, workshops and events on the local flora and fauna, helping us to better understand this fragile environment. It retains an air of mystery because of its link to the ‘Affaire Seznec’, one of the great judicial mysteries of the 20th century. Its location is the starting point for winding paths through the forest of Penhoat-Lancerf, offering privileged access to the riverbank landscapes.
As the train climbs higher, the Vallée du Trieux is revealed in all its splendour. Down below, the river meanders between wooded hills, and in the distance the château de la Roche-Jagu dominates the landscape. Perched on its promontory, it watches over the winding river Trieux and its verdant banks. From the train carriage, the view is breathtaking: the terraced gardens contrast with the austere silhouette of the fortress to create a striking portrait of nature and history in harmony.
The train continues its journey, approaching the Frynaudour Bridge, also known as the viaduc du Leff. Designed in 1893 by Gustave Eiffel, this elegant steel structure spans the point where the river Leff flows into the Trieux, merging its waters with those of the valley we’re looking down on. Below, the currents mingle in gentle movement, whilst the wooded riverbanks frame the view. We’re leaving the Goëlo and entering the Trégor, but the landscape doesn’t really seem to have changed. Nevertheless, we’ve crossed an ancient border.
Arriving in Pontrieux, Petite Cité de Caractère®
The train speeds along, and already the first signs of Pontrieux are appearing: a few houses emerge from the trees, and the Trieux, which has accompanied us from Paimpol, narrows before reaching the little town.
Soon, the station comes into view, marking the end of this journey through time. The engine slows, a final burst of steam rises in the air, and the train grinds to a gentle halt. But the journey doesn’t end here: Pontrieux, Petite Cité de Caractère® invites you to linger awhile. Nestling on the banks of the Trieux river, Pontrieux’s intimate charm and rich heritage will captivate you. A former river port, the town developed around the Trieux which gave it its name. Along the quays and cobbled streets, the half-timbered and granite houses are a reminder of its prosperous past, while its fifty lavoir wash-houses, used by washerwomen in times past, still have stories to tell.
Along the water, the reflections of the buildings mingle with the foliage, providing a picturesque backdrop to be admired on foot or by boat. With its well-preserved historic centre, its dedicated craftspeople and the peaceful atmosphere of its gardens, Pontrieux is an unmissable place to visit, where time seems to stand still.
(© Text by Gwenaël Le Meur)
